Gold, explained: why Alva works in 14k

Gold is inherently valuable. It requires neither comparison to other metals nor excessive qualification to prove its worth.

What is altered is the alloy,

as pure gold is too soft to be worn as Jewelry with any regularity. Gold alloys are mixtures of gold and other metals, combined to obtain the desirable characteristics of both elements: the richness of gold and the resilience needed for active, everyday use.

Alva chooses to work with 14k gold for this reason. There is no dilution of precious metals for the sake of accessibility and no sacrifice of quality for the sake of style. Alva makes gold Jewelry that is worn with a certain kind of regularity.

What does 14k mean?

The karat (abbreviated as “k”) is a measure of gold purity, typically indicated as a number between 0 and 24, with 24 indicating the highest possible purity. 18k gold contains 18 parts gold, 14 parts of other elements for every 24 parts of gold.

On the table below, you can see the breakdown of gold content in 24kt, 18kt, 14kt and 10kt gold.

Gold type and Content

24k : 99.9% Gold

18k : 75% Gold

14k : 58.3% Gold

10k : 41.7% Gold

Therefore, while 24k gold contains the highest percentage of gold, it is rarely used for fine Jewelry due to its relative softness and lack of resilience.

The karat indicates purity, not value, and value is derived from context and purpose.

The reason behind choosing 24k is down to the desired properties of the final Jewelry piece.

What is 24k gold?

Pure gold is a striking metal with interesting properties – chief among which is extreme softness. Gold’s natural resilience and ductility make it a popular choice for fine Jewelry, but only when alloyed with other metals. Gold alloys allow for the manipulation of the metal’s properties, including surface hardness.

A 24-carat gold bangle may well be desirable in its beauty and feel. However, a ring that is worn constantly throughout the day, during sporting activities, when washing the hands or even taking a shower needs more resilience.

Alva creates fine Jewelry, and Jewelry that is worn constantly needs more resilience.

Is there any difference between 14k and 18k?

The difference between 14k and 18k gold is, on the most basic level, the amount of gold in an alloy. 18k contains 18 parts of gold and 6 parts of other metals, while 14k contains 14 parts of gold and 10 parts of other metals. Therefore, the two alloys are visibly different in color.

The alloys also affect the way the Jewelry can be worn – both in terms of surface resilience and how the piece holds its shape. The exact nature of the differences depends on the alloy and finish.

It is important to note that, in this context, neither option is objectively better than the other.

The alloys are different, and the characteristics each one imparts to the piece depend on the desired effect and the way the piece is going to be worn.

When it comes to Alva, the reason for choosing 14k is, again, grounded in everyday use.

Why Alva uses 14k gold

Alva’s Jewelry is not meant to be hidden, stored away or used on special occasions only. Alva’s rings are worn constantly, Alva’s bracelets are worn on a daily basis, Alva’s earrings never miss an opportunity to go out. Therefore, Alva’s Jewelry is made from 14k gold, which is high in gold content, but still features considerable resilience and other qualities required for such kind of wear.

This is a question of practicality, but not in the dismissive sense of “something lesser”.

Alva prefers 14k because it is the right alloy for the job. This choice is not made with the feeling that a lower percentage of gold compromises the value of the piece – quite the contrary, Alva believes that 14k is an alloy with great inherent value.

Yellow, white and rose gold

The karat indicates the percentage of gold in a gold alloy, but it does not indicate colour. Gold alloys can be divided into three broad categories on the basis of their visual appearance.

Yellow, white and rose gold are three different types of gold alloys that differ in their production method and the additional elements they contain.

The exact differences vary from one Jewelry maker to another, but in general, yellow gold retains the characteristic warmth of the metal, while white gold is alloyed with additional elements to achieve a paler, colder appearance. Rose gold alloys contain copper, which affects the color of the final piece.

The variation in the appearance of the alloys is achieved by substituting some of the elements in the alloy with others. Therefore, two pieces of Jewelry can have the same karat value, but be made of different alloys and have a different colour.

A 14k rose gold piece of Jewelry will have the same amount of gold as a 14k yellow gold piece. The two will have a different colour due to the difference in alloys.

Is 14k not gold-plated?

It is vital to distinguish between solid gold alloys, gold-plated Jewelry, gold-filled Jewelry and gold-coloured Jewelry.

Solid gold Jewelry is always made from alloys of gold and other elements. Gold-plated Jewelry has a layer of gold onto which another, more resilient metal has been applied through mechanical bonding. Gold-filled Jewelry is similar to gold-plated Jewelry, but it has a thicker layer of gold.

The terms “gold-coloured Jewelry” and “solid gold Jewelry” describe fundamentally different things. Gold-coloured Jewelry can be made from virtually anything, including alloys, paints, plastics and more, depending on the desired effect. Gold-filled Jewelry always has a core of another metal, which is then covered with gold.

The karat indicates the percentage of gold in the piece, but it says very little about the construction and the materials used.

What happens as 14k ages?

Gold is a living metal, and as such, it will continue to change long after it has left the Jewelry maker’s door. Gold Jewelry will display the signs of use: fine scratches, variations in polish, softened edges, and a surface that has been permanently altered.

This is not a flaw. On the contrary, Alva believes that this is a feature.

Alva sees worn gold as a statement: the piece of Jewelry has lived through the experiences of its owner and has marked those experiences with subtle imperfections. The Alva Jewelry carries the imprint of its maker, but the wearer can leave their own mark, which will become permanent.

Worn gold is gold that has lived, and lived actively. Therefore, it is fundamentally different from gold that has been kept locked away, untouched.

Is 14k good gold? 

Gold is good – but it is good in different ways. If the question is “is 18k a better gold than 14k?”, the answer would be “it depends”. If the question is “is 14k good gold?”, the answer would also depend on context.

If the value lies in the percentage of gold, 18k may be better. If the value of gold lies in its properties and the way it transforms with age and with use while still retaining its richness of colour and feel, then 14k is clearly superior.

Alva prefers 14k because Alva’s Jewelry is worn, and worn actively.

What’s good about gold is worth wearing.